The Adventure: Day 6

The Drake Passage and South Shetland Islands
"Steve Johnson gets his shot"

I tried photographing birds again, though from deck 4 rather than deck 6. I thought this would give me a better chance of success,as it restricted my field of view. I think my technique improved from the previous day as well.

I was distracted by the spray. It was a sunny day, and I noticed that the sun shining from the other side of the ship caused rainbows (spraybows?) when the spray was high enough and fine enough. So I attempted capturing
spraybows - frustrating as they only exist momentarily.

Then I was distracted by the shadow of the ship on the spray, and spent some time trying to photograph that as well. Then I went back to photographing the wildlife again.

We asked one of the Quark Expeditions people how this crossing rated on a scale of 1 to 10, expecting 6 or 7.

"Three," he replied. "It's pretty smooth compared with some I've been on."

A huge tabular iceberg was sighted - our first of the expedition. We would see many more.
We were called in to the hall for a mandatory lecture. As we had made such good time crossing the Drake, a landing was scheduled for that evening. So, "this is a zodiac, this is how to get in, this is how to stay in, this is how to get out. This is a fireman's grip. Do exactly as we tell you, do not stand up without permission."
"Wildlife. Do not approach within 3 metres, though penguins are inquisitive and may approach you. Do not obstruct any animal's route to the sea. "

"This is the tag board. Remember your tag number, turn it before you leave the ship, turn it when you return. I will check. On returning to the ship, wash your boots in the chemical bath. This will prevent disease being being transferred between colonies."

"Be aware that these penguins are sitting on eggs and will get distressed if you get too close."

"You must not remove anything as a souvenir."

Aitcho Island, named by romantic souls after the Admiralty Hydrographic Office (HO), was beautiful in the evening light.

I loved the silence, which was broken only by the calls of the penguins, and the Petrels on the higher ground. I loved the smell and the atmosphere, the little colonies of Chinstrap and Gentoo, their nests on starburst craters, their rock collecting habits.

My only problem was I had left my tripod behind in the cabin and the light, lovely as it was, made hand-held photography difficult.

I saw Kirsten. "Time to go back, Paul."

"I don't want to go back."

She laughed an understanding laugh. "That is not an option."

I really wanted to stay. This feeling would happen several times over the following few days, but here it was strongest. I wanted to watch the penguins' eggs hatch, explore the island, see how the weather changed, how the light changed, take more photographs. But I knew there would be another boat tomorrow, with more tourists.

I wish I had asked to be the last one off the Island. If I could have had 10 minutes alone on Aitcho. I sat in the zodiac as the Akademik Shokalskiy appproached, desolate.

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